For Spring/Summer 24, London-based designer Feben presents Temple, a collection of elemental physicality, strength, provocation, vulnerability and desire, showcased at London Fashion Week.
The new collection takes the saying “my body is a temple” both literally and figuratively, with the latter inspired by artist Carrie Mae Weems and Sinead O’Connor. Throughout, Feben continues her exploration of what we perceive, both through her surface prints, and the evolving shapes of her signature Twist silhouettes.
To evoke the spiritual freedom of a liberated body, Feben has created a print like the ribbon of a kite, as if spiralling down the front of halterneck sundresses. The pattern is also created monochrome in black or peach, the shape of the ribbon sheer, to reveal the body beneath. Meanwhile, on simple white sleeveless dresses, Feben has printed her own body, in either brown or deep yellow, truly putting herself in her work.
The elemental desire of the Sinead O’Connor song “I Want Your (Hands On Me)” is in every piece of the collection, especially silk mini-skirts and mini-dresses with a diamond of fringing at the centre hem, very clearly exaggerating the body beneath. Hand-beaded dresses, which glory in the body beneath, are made from recycled plastic beads. Each is crafted by artisans in Accra, Ghana, with whom Feben has worked since her MA at Central Saint Martins.
Feben presents a full wardrobe of pieces: oversize biker jackets are cut from leather, wool, or denim; white pants are studded down the sides. Men’s joggers are shirred and wearable by everyone.