Japanese designer Issey Miayke, renowned for their signature pleats, returned to Paris for their SS24 collection.
Going for a relaxed experience, house leader Satoshi Kondo transformed the exquisite Césure space into complete zen — welcoming attendees with human made bird sounds made by local performers, before later breaking out into poetic dance moves to mark the beginning.
Titled ‘Grasping the Formless’, the new collection explored the concept of fluidity, encapsulating elements of nature, such as the gentle wind, flowing water, shimmering light, and the flickering flame — essentially elements with no fixed shape, but moving in fluid motion.
It also recalled Miyake’s Spring/ Summer 1998 collection, hiding models with shielding dresses and integrated face masks. Satoshi Kondo’s contemporary take was evident across draped ensembles outlining the human figure before turning to unconventional suiting dipped in vibrant hues. These were pulled at the waist in asymmetry, expanding at the cuffs clung with tonal handbags.
The delicate wardrobe was complemented by a radically opposite one, with more structured pieces, such as Jackets and coats with oversized shoulders, thanks to a play of pleats and superimposed fabrics. Satin fabrics enveloped the models in sculptural dresses. A light fabric with a crumpled paper effect was used to make overcoats and comfortable trouser suits, as well as elegant wide-brimmed hats.
Issey Miyake also debuted its first collaboration with New Balance, aptly named Issey Miyake x New Balance MT100, which added another layer of complexity to the collection. This collab sought to explore the concept of minimalist mobility, echoing the sensation of going barefoot. The original MT10 model was ingeniously reimagined, drawing inspiration from the design aesthetics and color palette of the Issey Miyake collection.